Just eight miles north of Berwick-upon-Tweed, Eyemouth is Scotland’s first town, if you’re travelling from England. But there is nothing English about Eyemouth – oh no. The village wears its St. Andrew’s colours with pride.
Eyemouth is a seafaring place, and has been since the 13th century. There are over 60 working fishing boats in the little harbour along with a daily market selling the aforementioned spoils. The market is found on the north side of the harbour, and comes complete with a viewing deck of the coming and goings in Britain’s second busiest port. Although you do have to be quite an early riser to get the full benefit – most boats are back by 9am.
Fishing is by far the main industry in Eyemouth, and has marked its history in good ways and bad. The 1881 disaster claimed 189 lives and is still referred to as “black Friday”. As a sign of respect no fishermen go out at all now on Fridays, and anyone who did would be considered a pariah. However, “black Friday” proved to be a catalyst for change and funds that poured in in the aftermath were used to build a new port, the basis of which is still in use today. The local museum in the centre of town documents the disaster in a variety of ways, including a beautifully made tapestry.
The pretty town is picture perfect and has its fair share of amusements. Coastal walks along the 90 metre craggy cliffs are unsurprisingly generous with their views, as long as you’re willing to share with the local population of skuas, puffins, shags and fulmars.