On a small island no more than a few city blocks in length, the beautifully preserved medieval town of Trogir is connected to the mainland by one bridge and tied to the outlying island of Čiovo by a second. The settlement dates back to the 3rd century BC, when it was colonized by the Greeks, who named it Tragurion. It later flourished as a Roman port. With the fall of the Western Roman Empire, it became part of Byzantium and then followed the shifting allegiances of the Adriatic. In 1420 the Venetians moved in and stayed until 1797. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and survives principally from tourism. You can explore the city in about an hour. A labyrinth of narrow, cobbled streets centers on Narodni trg, the main square, where the most notable buildings are located: the 15th-century loggia and clock tower, the Venetian-Gothic Čipko Palace, and the splendid cathedral, with its elegant bell tower. The south-facing seafront promenade is lined with cafés, ice-cream parlors, and restaurants, and there are also several small, old-fashioned hotels that offer a reasonable alternative to accommodations in Split.
More down-to-earth than the expensive seafood restaurants that line the seafront, this eatery is much loved by locals and visitors alike, who come here to feast on platters of fried seafood, with no more elaborate accompaniment than a sprinkle of salt and a dash of lemon.
In an elegant 17th-century stone building in the old town, close to the cathedral, this welcoming family-run restaurant serves Dalmatian specialties such as black risotto, gnocchi, and fresh fish, as well as a good choice of local wines. Sit outside on the open-air terrace, or take a table in the intimate air-conditioned dining room. Vanjaka doubles as a highly regarded B&B with just three rooms upstairs.
Katedrala Sveti Lovrijenac
The remarkable Katedrala Sveti Lovrijenac, completed in 1250, is a perfect example of the massiveness and power of Romanesque architecture. The most striking detail is the main (west) portal, adorned with superb Romanesque sculpture by the Croatian master Radovan. The great door, flanked by a pair of imperious lions that form pedestals for figures of Adam and Eve, is framed by a fascinating series illustrating the daily life of peasants in a kind of Middle Ages comic strip. In the dimly lit Romanesque interior, the 15th-century chapel of Sveti Ivan Orsini (St. John Orsini) of Trogir features statues of saints and apostles in niches facing the sarcophagus, on which lies the figure of St. John. The bell tower, built in successive stages—the first two stories Gothic, the third Renaissance—offers stunning views across the ancient rooftops.